t^ ■ ! ,:. 




THE SELF-INSTRUCTOK 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

--- - ©opyns^ ^0 
Shelf ..IM.^JnS 



f iffap. ©opyrig]^ t|o 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 







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Y^t 



T^t^E^ 



^•SEhF-lHSTRUCTOR, ^ 



E3^^- 



PROF. C. E. MOORE. 



I-^i_it>lis^lT-t5ci t>>^ 



THE ATLANTA CUTTING SCHOOL, 






^-^c- 



ATLANTA LABEL PRESS, 

ATLANTA, GA.: 

1892. 




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V 



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f'<^^^" 



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(jjjj^^ntered according to Act of Congress, in the yirar 1892, by^MoORE 

A- OlAMPENO 

ington, D. C. 



A- <>iAMPEi\ois, in tlie office of the Librarian of Congress, at Wash- 



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^ 




The publishers of this work respectfully call your 

attentiou to a few items of importance to you who wish iMc .V^eiaucnicbcr nuic()cii l)ier bcfonhevs auf ciuiiie^unfte 

to get value received for the money you have invested Hon (HHHicr iiMditiflfcit aufiiuiffam, luclclic Hon bcbciiten- 

iu this work. ^ciii 3iitcvcf)"e fiir iiUe Mcjciiicjcii finb, UH-ld)e iljt &dh in 

First. Read this page carefully before attempting to bicfcv '.'Ivbcit iuiqclci]t bafacn. 

try your hand at drafting. 1- iVnun- maw Hcifurfic cincn '}{hv\\i ju mad)cn, Icfc nuin 

Second. Always stand behind the customer when bicfe icitc aufincvffain biivd). 

vou are taking his measure for a coat, as he will stand 2. v2tct? ftel)c num bintii 6cni .Hu'nben, nni il'.nf) fiiv 

in a more natur.il position and g,ve you a better chance cincn :)ioif ^n iiol)inen, bii bcr .VuinCic cine niitiiilid)eie itcU 

to get a good measure. Innji ciiu\cl)!ucn mivb nnb foniit cin iicmuicrc-J I'liif! ci^ielf 

Third. Take all measures snug but not tight, as in luiib. 

taking a snug measure you get a more uniform nieas- o. Wiin nc[)mc aHe \Wa|!C nid)t ^n ftrainm, ba bnvai cin 

ure and thus retain the natural relation which each 5" ftiannnco iWaf: bcc 3uiiimineniui'Ui, uu'li)cr nntev iiUcn 

measure bears to the other. y.'fa&cn criitivt fcln lcid)t bccintiiid)ti!it luivb. 

Fourth. When taking measures take each irdividual -i- 'i^fi"' ^.'.if^'luicbincn lolltc jcbc^ cin^chic Wa& ^nci obcr 

measure twice or three times before removing your ^if' 'W'^' cu'nonuncn wcvbcn, bcinir man b.iij CMiitvnnu-nt 

in.strument to another part of the body, as the secret of ^'^'» ciiu-m Xbcile bcj .«nipc"* nad) eiiicm anbcvcn Jhcilc 

cutting a good garment lies in getting a good measure iHn|d)icbt, ba bao Wcbcimni;! bco 3n|d)ncibcn-j oon cincm 

to cut it by X'ln^niic ini tintcn 'lyuifincbnirn liciit- 

Fifth. In taking the measures take them in this 5. -.Wan ncbmc in foliicnbci :)icibcnfol(,c bic -.>'ui|!C : 

order: ist. Shoulder pitch ai shown from A to B on ^- ^-bnltcibbbc al« ncH-iilt an Aicinr 1, luui A_B. 2. 

figure 1 . 2nd. Length of natural waist as shown bv C. -''"iH' f"' natiivlid)ca iaillc al-^ nc^ci.it buid) C. ;;. ^Isolle 

3rd. Full length of coat as shown by D. 4*. The ^''^"!l^' ^^'^ "'''^" '^'^^ !l^"^''ii^ ^'"■* ^^- "i- ^"^ *~'lvmlod)= 

scye measure as described on figure r. 5th. Breast -'^^'^'' '^'^^ ''Cldliicbcu u, 3-u,ur 1. 5. 1?n3 93vu:t=l)iaf!. 

measure. 6tb. Waist measure. 7th. Incline measure "i- ?'i-^ Waf, bcr Jaillc. 7. l^aj Inclme-JIfaH al. c,c= 

as described by F and G on figure 2. 8th. Suppres- '^'''^' ^''•* ^' ""^ '' '^" '^'^I'-v ± 6. ®a« Suppressum- 

sion measure as described by Hand I on figure 2. 9th. •''"« '^'^' ^^'^"^^' ^"'■* ^^ ""^ ^ '^" ^''fl"^' -• ■*• ^'^' 

Length of sleeve. loth. The length of vest collar -'^"'l^' ^^"^ -''•'""•'''• ^"- ^'^' neunu.fdite ya„ge be. 

desired, iith. The full length of vest. 12th. The ■^' ■' . 

1 • 1 M r.r, ■ -. r..! ^ • ^1 TA, , ^, T'ic Miib'" bei laillc an Den -yofcn. 13. Die ■*d)nttnuifi« 

heighth of the waist of the trousers. 13th. The length " , 

r. r^ .1 A«, • r. ■ . L'dniic an ben ^aien. 14. I^aa Wan bee 'iaillc on ben 

01 mseani 01 trousers. 14th. The size of trouser waist " . . , .. , ^ ., 



Mo en, uicld)e>5 ftct* bcini Ufafiiiebmen iibec beiii ■Jaillen = 

i^anb bcr Mofen ncnonuncn luciben fodte. 15. 3)aS Miif= 

tcn»\iJtiii"! bcr •v>o|"cn. K!. Tie iiemiinfcbtc SKeite bcJ 

.^viiiec:'. 17. Tie 'Kcile bciJ 33oben§ bcc 'Pofcn 

„. , , , ^ ^ ,. . (i. oi-ftis ncbnie man ba6 Wobej^ournal ^nr $anb, 

Sixth. Always refer to your fashion lournal when . . .^ ,,,, . ,« •■ ,. ■ ^ ■ 

. ' .' . nni bie neueiten M'tobcn oon vln^niicn ober iriienb euicin 



which sliould be taken over the waistband of the 
trousers worn at time of measurement. 15th. Hip 
measure of trousers. 1 6th. The width of knee desired . 
17th. The width of bottom of trousers. 



you wish to know the stylish shape or size of any gar- 



ibeile eine-J XHiMiiiicJ ani>finbi(i ^n niad)en, nnb ridite bie 



ment or any part of any garment, and govern your ,,>, - . ,,,, - ' c , .' , ■ c ■ ^ n . 

- ' - ° . " . I'caiic unb I'tniter barnad) em, aber m teineni ^iVaUe Her 



measures', curves and shapes accordingly ; but in 
no case change the construction lines of your draft, as 
any stj'le of garment can be drafted by the system 
herein described. 



aabev'.' m.in bie (^oni'trnflion-i^i.'inicn von beni (5:ntunirf, 
ba iviicnb cine I'u'be iie^eidinet werben fanii nad) bem in 
biei'em i^ndie bcfd)ricbenen 2i)ftem. 



^ie ^dynltevhvbc 

The Shoulder Pitch mjj.f, jiffimticn inbciii iiuiii cine £cite hci? ^JlMiifctji nuf ben 

Is found by placing one angle of the square on top of iiiebviiifteii '•jJiinft bcr Unfcii ^c()iiltec, imb bie niiberc (Bcite 

the lowest point of one shoulder, and holding the be? aiMnfel? niif ben luebriiiUeii "i.Minft bev ;ci)teii Srfiultci- 

other angle of square on a level with the lowest point hiilt, ci\-:s ;if^f'lt '""''t' mi Ai'inv 1, biird) E uiib E, imb 

of the other shoulder, as shown b}' E and E, on fig. i, inbcin man A imb B aiif bciii ;1iucfe,i iinitieich'. T^ie (\(= 

while you make a mark on the back at B. Measure fmibeiie iSiiffennuui ^U'ifdlfu A imb B ift Pie 2d)iilteibiilie, 

the distance from A to B for shoulder pitch, as A is an ba A bev iiefmibeiie iMiutt aii beiii .\?i-aiieii ift, roo bie imlle 

imaginary point on the collar, just where the full .vtLil)C bc-^ Oiocfco ciibct, uieiiii bcr :1iiiff feitiii iit. 
heii^hth of the coat collar should reach when coat is 

finished. ^'^'^ '2IrmIod):iSJJotl 

The Scye Measure H''1'i' '"" t'cii ".Jlrm imb o5d)iiltei- iienoiumen mcvbeii unb 

iiber bem I'^eleiif bet Srini'ter, nl* Gt^fiflt iiiivb an bcr 
Should be taken around the arm and shoulder, joint ,^^^^^^ j^ ,|„f, ,, ^,,, ^^^^^^^^ j^ ^^^^^^^ 

directly o\'er the joint of shoulder on the line as shown 

by E and O on fig. I. .^O)? Sruft^TOinfl 

U'irb i^cfiinbcn iiibem man biu iVuibniafi iiin ben -^^in-tier, 

The Breast Measure t,,^,^ „|,,^,,. ^^„ o(j.,j,^|, ^,,,,^^^^_ uuil)i-cnb num l)iiiter bcm 

Is found by placing the inch tape around the body close •^\""^''" .'^f''^- -'-''^i" "elimc 9brtcl)t, bnft man ba« Wa& 



up under the arms while standing behind the subject. 



nid)t 511 ftromm iiimmt. 



taking care to draw the tape snugly but not tight. I^O** .JaiUcil=3JJafj 

The Waist Measnre ''" '^''"■'" ■^^^'''^ '" lU'iiuiliiilid) lum 1 bi;; I ' j Sfl fdjmnler, 



For a coat is usually from one to one and one-half 
inches smaller than the waist measure for the trousers, 
and is found by placing the tape around the body at the 
hollow part of back while standing behind the subject, 
taking care to draw the tape snugly as above mentioned . !^ fl^ A? it t tcil = VJi nf5 



111? bus 3ni[leii^l'ui|i bcr Mufc", cJ mirb iiefimben, titbem 
moil bo? l>uifi in ber Miibliiiui be? Jllucfen? nm ben .Hiirper 
berum nnleiU. '■Man ncl)me ba? il'tafj Ijiiitci bcm Munben 
itelienb inu~> iiid)t \u Uranini. 



.,,,., fur ben :)iorf fann iiefi'ubeii luerbcii iiibcm man ba* i^anb* 

Note — Some unpractical publishers scout the idea .>,>,,-, •■,,, . '. ,-. -^, ■, v ^^ ^ ^ .- •. 

. , ,, , •'•^^'^1' "l"-'' '''•■I' ilvoHten il)cil be? isiuc? ober ber Mnften 

that the coat waist should be smaller than that of the ,„i„,, :„.. ' ,■ . >, r .' -, , . . <> 

anlcjit, mbem man Ijintcv bcm itunbcn |tel)t niib bavaiif 

trousers, but as your humble sen^ant, the author, has ,j,f„. s,- «»,.■ j,* .-t 1 o,- .- - .^1^ c 

-^ ' ad)rct bay vJaiji nid)t 511 itramm \\\ nchmcn. Dtclc? yJcap 

been a practical tailor for ten years, and a practical cut- ;,> ;„ s, ^w, .1 , , ■ r-. .- 1 rr .■ 1 i . ^ » r- , 

^ J • 1 lit tn ber Jnciiel I'on '- In? -'-4 3i''l !d)maler a ? ba-S i»il!« 

ter and tailor for fourteen years, twenty-four years in ,,)V|.-, ■^ ,...,<■-, ,■-',.,, 

all, see that you profit by his experience by taking your si,',„ ' ro; ■ ., , t. .-a .-, < t 1 

^ . ^ ^ ^ ° ■' -'lo.e. — (finiijc impaftnd)e -pcraiuiiicber bcmaiuicln 

measure as described. biefe Csbee, baft basS IailIen»Wa|) be* ;)iLufe# )d)maler fein 

The Hip Measure follte al? ba?icniiK ber Mofen, aber ba bcr ■s>crau?iK('cr 

For the coat may be found by placing the tape around ^''■"'f-' '-yn^iw fin pnif i|d)cr 5d)neiber fiif 10 3ahrc ift, 

the largest part of the seat or hips while standing ""^ ^^'^ Jnfclnifibcr 14 5al)re bcfd)dftiiU nmr nnb bie obigc 

behind the subject, taking care to draw the measure -Wft'iobc nuil)rcnb bcr lelUcn 'II Csaijre itct? ..lit bcm beften 

snugly but not tight. This measure will as a rule be ^'"■'fohic anticiuenbet l)at, to lui b and) ein jcbcr iicfer nut 

from one-half to three -fourths of an inch smaller than "'"" ^'^''ue Wctl)obc ju befohien. 
the seat measure for trousers. 



The Incline Measure 

Is found by placing a straight edge against the cus- 
tomers back as shown in fig. 2, letting the straight 
edge rest in the hollow between the shoulder blades 
and hips, held in position by pressing the hand lightly 
against it just opposite the hollow of the back at waist 
that the stick may rest with an equal pressure against 
the back and hips while measuring the distance from 
straight edge to back of neck with the end of square 
as high up on the collar as the coat collar is worn, as 
illustrated by F and G on fig. 2. 

The value of the incline measure as a drafting fea- 
ture is very great as its addition to other measures both 
increase and decrease their valure according to the 
shape of a customer bringing about a natural balance 
to the garment, that cannot be obtained in any other 
niannfir. 

The following table will show what part of the 
incline measure is used in dratting. 
When the incline is i inch deep apply i inch to draft. 



is 2 

is 3 
is 4 

is 5 
is 6 
is 7 



2 

2^/ 



thus it will be seen that when we say that such a part 
of the draft is incline we mean the appliable part as 
shown above and not the actual measure. 

The Suppression Measure 
Is found by placing the straight edge against the back 
as shown in fig. 2, and measuring the distance from 
straiget edge to hollow of back as illustrated by // and 
/. This measure gives us the necessary volum of skirt 
for the various shapes of hips, the value of this meas- 
ure is one half of its entire amount, thus when we say 
such a part of a garment is suppression, w- mean that 
only one half of the whole measure should be applied. 



luirb (iciiinbcii in^cm imiii ciu (icviibeij I'iiiciil iiciicii be? 
MiuibcM ;)iiiifcii hcilt, luic gc^eiiit luirb an '^ic^in 2. lifaii 
hiffc brt':i Viiienl in bee iScl)uleel)ii[)hinn uiib ^luifcticii ben 
Miiftcii rul)en, iinihreiib man ei in bee ;1iiicfcMl)ol)liuui etamS 
aiibviicft, unb mcfic Me ©ntfecniuu] uon bee gciaben i^inie 
be? Si.iial? bis ,511111 9facfcn, inbcm man ben aCinfel aniegt 
in bcv .'^i.ihe a!? bev Jliocf^A'ragen cietvagen luivb. 

T^ev ^'i>evih be? Inclinc-WaKe? nl? ctiovafteriftifciie^eidi' 
n'uni ill ein fchr fii'i^ftc- i>nrdi bie lierfdiiebenen •fiinuifif 
(luiuicn fonnil)! an bev 'Jhi?beiin\nui nl? an ber (y"infd)rnn= 
Fund, bii iniv biirrl) biefe>.< lUiafi bie (U'lniue Aavnt be? 
.Huiibcn (lefnnben u'erbcii faun, nnb ba niir anf biefe 'i!\^eife 
fei- ;1iorf viditiii ^u^ufcfjneiben ift. 

ift ein fet)r ni'i-^iii-'f- f*''"" ""i' i'urd] btefee "il'uifi ift cis nuii)» 
lid) eine natiu1id)e g-orm be? Jllocfe? ^n evjiielen. 

'i>ic fohienbc Jabetle ^cint nn? meldje? i^cvhiiltnij? be? 
indine^llfafu'? beini 3cid)nen in ".Jlnwciibiinfl foniint. 
3\?enn ba-? Incline W.ifi ti't 1 Soil tief, iicbrand)e 1 3o(I. 

" "1 I '• " 

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liievaiu^ luivb ein jeoennanii eifel)cn fonnen, baf; wenn ein 
Iheil ber ,3cid)iuui ift incline, nnv bet im ''Berbaltnif! fte^ 
benbe Al)eil gebauidit niivb unb nid)t ba? nolle M'fap. 

X*o«( „2uVprcffuMi:5!)iof5" 

mirb pcfnnben inbcm man bac* gerabc Vinial ciciien ben 
;)iiicfcn be? .ftunbtii Ijiilt, al? ijc^eiiit mirb an gicuir 2. 
Wan mefu' bie (yntfernnnii luin bent yiiiMl bi? ^iv Stiiffeii' 
bbblnng, al? cu"eiiit bnrdi H unb I. Tic? Waf; jiiebt nn? 
ben notblvcnbiiica X\)t\\ non Jud) fiir bie lierfdiiebenen 
jvormen ber .vtiiftoii, bod) ift biefee Wafi nur uni bie Malftc 
in Slinucnbunfl ,511 b'.ingni, baber fagt n.an bicfef* Wajj ift 
suppression. 



Gifliiimig bcr .•^ciiliiiirui 9tJ. 1. 

Diagram 1 -I'l'mt ^iol)c ciiu' (icia&e Vuiic luni Z bu Z, uiuicfiilu' 3fV 

Is produced by first drawing a straight line from Z to Z 3on Inn.,, bmn, -.iclic man cine winic ium, Z bi. K muu'iabr 

about 36 inches long, then draw a line from Z to K ''^ ^oli laiui, b.un, m^^ Z bi. A ift 5« ,uk, Bollc6 in 

about 24 inches long, then from Z to A is Ss ofan inch """' S"""" ^ ^'^^" ^'^ ^'^^ ^^ *'"' '^*ulfc,bol,e ; oon B bi§ C 

,, r A ^ -D • I. ij -^ \ c D »„ o lit VlvniloQi'yjfat! in t^tittdn ; lum A bis D ift nnluvltmc 

in all cases; from A to B is shoulder pitch : from B to L „ , ^, 

. ^ ,, ^i_- J r A , -n ■ 1 ^1 '^'iinne ber iaillc ; Don I) bi'3 ii. )inb nuei RoQ obev oic 

IS full scye measure on thirds; from A to D is length ,"'„.., ^ ,, ... ^. '.. '' ,' .. 

, . ^ c T^^T---. -u r pl)antaftiid)e imllc ; luni A bi* X t|t hic imllc Sanne bei5 

of natural waist; from D to E is two inches or fancy 1, . , ' v • • ■ , ,, ., t^ t. . ir 

. ^ -^ . ^ ,, , _^, ^ . . ;)uictc3 ; bie iicrabcn L'lnicn, nojcidinct B, C, D, K unb A 

waist; from A to X is full length of coat; square out n ," t^ -•■.-./-. „ t^ . ■. V. r. • 

, ,. , J Ti ^ T^ T- 1 ^ -1, <- 1 J ^-t, ""^ I'l'"' <^' l"'^ F tmb nets yi ^c\\\ ; Hon F biS G ift 111- 

the hues marked B, C, D, Band X, as illustrated, then u ■ . ^- -■■,■. J .« -, ■ ■ U ■. 

^ ^. ,. , , ^ r-x r>- • 1- (--lino; Hon (t bis H i)t bic .'onlftc bcv ^'rnlt in ^uici Tnt< 

from C to F isi'4 inches always; from F to G is incline : r •-. •. 1 r. o.^ -r ,. ^ ur i ., 

^ ^^.'^, ,., ,. , ^ . , ,^ tdn ; I it bev hnlbe ^ibcn ju'M*''" < nnb H : J 11 bic 

from G to His >2 of breast on two thirds; Iishalfway •. \,, , . , , . ^-,-,. ., 

,„ ^. , ,^ ^, ^ ^^ . , ^, ■'oalftc bcr iHnit Don II ui \'(d)tcln, man leae ben SlMnfcl 

between C and H; J is half of breast from Hon eighths, ,, „ r ; i /.-.-.,/ o n 

' , ,. , ,. ^ _ . ° an Don H rnr K, nnb Don I fuv L; C i|t li Roll Don 

square up from H for K, and from 1 for L; O IS % ot an .,;.,;.? , .;• • i:» c, d -. „ <>••» ■ t » 

^ ^ ' . . . , , ,. "inie I an I'lnic B ; I'liiic r ill m alk-n A-allen ^MCi Boll 

inchfromlineIonlineB;linePistwoinchesaboyeline ^^^^^ ^^^.^^, ^^^^^ ^ ^^., ^^ ..^ i„dine lucniqcv einen 

Bin all cases; from K to M is incline less one full inch; ^,^,(,^^^ ^^^,„ . ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^,_ ^^ ..^ ^^.^ _^^..j.^^ ^^^ ;^^.^^.^ .^ 

fromMtoN is >^ of breast on sixths; fromDtoQis'^ .^,^,,.,^, . ,,n I) bis (J ift cin balbev ^ofl in alien pflen ; 

of an inch in all cases ; square downfrom Q for R, draw ,^,i„,,^. ^,j, ^,^,,, ^^ ^. ^. jj ^^,^^ ,.^j^^ ^.,,^' ^,;,,j^ ^,^,,, ^ ,,^^, q . 

a line from A toft from R to S is ]4 of breast on eighths, ,^,„ j, f,j^ y j-^ ^,^ ^^,, .^^ j,^^. 5^^^,,-, ;,, ,,^,j^,(,, ^,,,^ ^^j,,^,^. 

square up from S as illustrated; from R to T is 1 ', ^^|, ^,^,„ ^ _;^ ^^^..^j^^^ . ^,^,,, ,, j,;,^ ,p ^-^ j^ ^^^l, ,,,,j, ,^j,,fj^ 

inches, square down from T to Z by line E ; from gto U ^^^ ^,p„ .,. j,;,^ ^^ j^j,^,^, y.,,j^, j^ . ^,^,„ .. ^,j. y jj-j ^^ ^^^jj 

is I yi inches, square down from U for V by line K. j,„j, „j„f i^, ,^(, ^,^,„ y ^-jj^ y burA S'inie E. 

For the benefit of those who have never drafted be- jynv bieicnu,en, ineldic nicmols ;uDor 3ei<l)iiiiii!U'ii I'l't 

fore we give the following explanation for reading the uunfen l)aben, Ci,thi\\ mir bic fohicnbcn '•^(useinanbeifcltiin- 

square. All modern squares contain 10 tables or sec- jion, nm bcu Webraud) beS 3iMitfcls bcffcr \\\ Dcrftiiicu. 

tions of divsions, as follows; 5 sections on the short i)lllc (icnuil)nlid)ci- J^^infcl cntbaltcn 10 Scftioncn Don Jlb= 

angle, which are called even divisions, that is devisable tbeilniuvn, mie foliU : 5 scftioncn an bcr tureen ^eite, 

by 2, as follows; thirty seconds, sixteenths, eighths, iucld)e cbciic ^^IbtbciUniiien ncnaniit mcibcn, Me burd) ^irci 

fourths and halves, — those on the longer angle are iielbcilt mci-bcn fonncn, nue fol.it : ;Wftcl, KJftcl, 8tel, 

devisable by 3, as follows: twenty-fourths, twelfths, Dici-tel nnb balDc,--biciciii[H'i> an bev lan,;,cn incite finb 

sixths, thirds and two-thirds; thus when a breast tbcilbqv bnvd) ;!, mic foljit ; I'lltcl, I'itcl, Gtd bvittcl nnb 

measure is 36, the half of breast on fourths would be ^mci bvittd ; abcv nu-nn ciii l^rnU Wafi ift ;!(;, bi^- Malfte 

18 on the division of fourths as 18 is half of 36, or if a bev 'i^nift an 'i^icvtcl luiirbc 18 an bcr Ibcilnnii Don l-'icrtcl 

breastorany other measure is applied by halves, thirds, fcin, als 18 ift bie Miilftc Don 'M\, obcf menu cine "i^inft 

eighths or sixteenths, look on the devisable propor- ober ivpcnb cin anbcics ^'Juiji ift aniu'iieben bind) Mnl c, 

tions of your squire for the measure described. Trittd, ^^Iditcl obec 2cdiu-l)ntcl, fo ncbme man bie thctl» 

bavcn ^lHvl)ciltnific bcs ilMnfds fiiv bas bcfdjiicbcnc i'fnjj. 



Diagram 2. 
From Q to R is incline,square down from R for S , 1 6 inches 
in all cases ; from S to T is two inches, when breast and 
seat measures the same, but if the seat is larger than the 
breast, add on to T ){ of an inch more for each inch that 
the seat is larger than the breast, but in case the seat 
measure is smaller than the breast, deduct }( of an inch 
for each inch that the seat is smaller than the breast; from 
T to U is suppression ; from Z to B is half of breast on 
eighths with ^X of an inch added extra ; draw a line from 
B to O , at the same time measure the distance from B to O 
and apply the same from U to where the same measure 
touches on line P; from O to N is >-< of breast on eighths; 
shape the back from A to B and from N to Q, from N 
t:o K 'i of incline, shape the side body and skirt as 
illustrated from K to V through R, Y and U ; from L to 
W is incline ; from R to E is >^ of breast on fourths ; 
draw a line from W to E for D, which is j{ of an inch 
above the line; Y is }{ ^f^n inch below the line, shape 
bottom of side body as illustrated from Y to D : 
from C to G is half of breast ; square down from G for 
H; from G to I is three and a quarter inches; from H to 
J is three and three fourths inches; measure the waist 
by commencing at 5 and measuring to Q ; apply Q to R 
and measure to E ; apply E to H and measure back to 
find F which is half of the whole waist measure ; from 
V to X is half of breast on two-thirds. 



(Srfliirung ber ^ciifjnung ^0. 2. 

S?on Q bii R ift incline iiiib luintle ab Don R fiir S, 
l(i ^oU ill alien j^-cilleu ; Don S big T finb jmei 3oII, mcnn 
S^nilt iinb "Silt'l'fnp haJfelbe ift, ift abcr bev ©iit grofeet 
at* bic 'i^vuft, fo fiige man ju T cincn uiertcl 3oU nicljr fiic 
jebcn 3iill, i«elcf)en ber @i^ grbfeer ift alS bie 33ruft, aber 
ini J-allf bas ®ih Wafi ift fc[)malcr al8 bie i^ruft, jie^e 
man eincn uiertcl J^i'l ui^ fiir einen jeben ^oH iueld)en ber 
@iU fdimnler ift nU Oie 53iuft; uon T bie U ift suppress 
sion ; Hon Z bi« B ift bie C^iilfte ber 'J^ruft in '!J(d)tetn niit 
cincm uievtel 3oll eytra jngeredjnet ; man jicbc cine Isiinie 
oon B bis nnb ^nr fclbcn Q(U meffc man bie Sntfernung 
luiM B bis nnb fiige biefelbe jn M, am baSfclbc Wa^ an 
i.'inie I' ftofit ; Oon O bis N ift bic Miilfte ber i'ruft an 
''^ld)tcln ; forme ben Siiicfcn oon A biS B nnb Hon N biS Q, 
oon N bii< K ift yi incline, forme bic Seite unb ben 
2d)oof! [lis gc^cigt mirb non K bis V bnrd) R, Y nnb U ; 
oon I; bis W ift incline ; oon 1! bis E ift bic 'Vtiilfte bev 
"^^rnft an ^iMcrteln ; man ^icbc eiiic l'i.:ie oon W biS E fiir 
1), au'ldic eiiun uiertcl 3oli iiber ber L'inie Y ift, ift ein 
oicvtcl 3oll nntcr ber I'lnie, fo foinic ben i^oben ber (Seitc, 
als gc^cigt miib oon V bi? I) ; oon C bis (t ift bie §cilfte 
ber inuft ; minflc ab oon G fiir H ; oon G biS I ift 3}i 
3oII ; man mcffc bie Saitle inbem mon bei 5 anfiingt nnb 
bis Q mifjt ; fiige Q 5U R unb man nieffe bis E ; man 
fiige E jn H nnb meffe ^nriicf nm F ju finben, meldjcS bie 
•spiilfte be« ganjcn laillen-llfaleS ift ; oon V biS X ift bie 
C">iilftc bei- ^i^rnft in ^mci T»vittcln. 



Diagram 3 

Is produced by finishing up Diagram 2 ; shape 
shoulder seam as is illustrated from D to M ; shape 
scye as illustrated ; draw a line from W to F, and 
shape from F to C, as illustrated ; from M to E 
is one half of breast on fourths measured directly 
across from M G, is two inches from E, take out one- 
fourth inch at E as illustrated, shape the coat b}' com- 
mencing at V, and shape the bottom of skirt to X; shape 
the gorge from M to E, and from E to G, shape front of 
coat as illustrated from G to X, through I and J,- from A 
to B is two inches, shape waist seam from Y to B, through 
C, as illustrated, take out one-fourth of an inch 
between skirt and fore part at B as illustrated, from 

to U is one and one-fourth inches, L is one ard one- 
fourth inches above the breast line make a notch at U 
and L for back and front of sleeve. In making up the 
garment see that the collar is sewed on full at least three- 
eighths of an inch between the points two and three, 
also stretch the front shoulder three eighths of an inch 
between four and five, before seaming up the shoulder 
seam, hang the sleeve notch to notch. 

To draft a coat for a corpulent figure square up from 

1 for K two and one half inches as per dotted line on 
Diagram 3 ; then measure the waist forward from T to S 
and from R to N; take out one-half inch between Nand 
F, and measure forward from FforH, which will throw 
H forward, as per dotted line, then from H to J is three 
and three -fourths inches, which throws J to front ; 
as per dotted line, shape fore part from G through K and 
J as per dotted lines. 



(frtliinuig bcr 3fi<f)"""fl 'Jo- ^- 

"J^icfe ^fid'iuiiu] ift cine ^iHilIcu?uim lum ?fo. 2 ; D iff 
ei'ifn l)nlben 3oll uiitcv i.'inie P ; foniic (2d)ultcr=iSaum 
al? (iciC'slt '^'ii'^ i>uti[) D bio M ; form- ba§ "Jlrmlod) luie 
niuKiicl'cii ; noil M bh E ift bic -sjiilftc bcr 33ni|"t in 25icr* 
tdn, lH'vQ^c iibev i]cmc|"fcn oon iM, G ift ^mei 3^11 Bon E, 
ninn nehmc cincn nieitd 3i-''" licvnus* aU lUMcigt mivb bci E; 
mnn fauiu' iin ben Jliocf ^n fovnien bci V, unb fovnic ba§ 
(.^•nbe bc'j Sd)ofic5 bci X; fovme ben >paU lion M ju E, 
non E \u G ; man fm-ine bie 'i^ovbevfeite be§ Stocfc? nl§ gc 
\(\c[t u'iib Hon (i bie X bnid) I unb J ; Hon A bi'o B fjnb 
^UH'i 3^^'!/ forme Jnillen 2iuim oon Don Y bi? B burd) C, 
n'ic iiiuiCiU'bcn ; num nclimc cincn oiertel 3oD ,^luifd)cn bcm 
3d)ofi nnb tern noibeicn Ibdl bcinuss, nl8 ge^cijit luirb 
bnidi I'.; I'oii (» biJ V ift T^ 3oll, L ift 1^ 30(1 iiber 
bcr ^iMnft Vir.ic, nnutc cincn C^ii fd)nitt bci U nnb L fiir 
ben [jinteven unb oorbeien Iljeil be>S iJIcimcI'?. S?ciin^Jhif' 
niiuben oc,'* ;1iocrcC' l;tit man biirniic", \n fcbcn, ^ll':', bcr Slin: 
(U'li uieniiii'teno bici ndUcl ,ioll ^lifilcn ben '•i.Minitcn ^mei 
nnb ba'i oniieniibt miib, ebcnfa(l>J ftiedenuin bic ^inivbci 
3d)nltci- bvci ni!)tcl 3i'tl ^mifdicn -I niiCi 5 iinc, beuov man 
ben ^Sdinl^'v vBiUim anfiii.mt, biiiuu' ben '^Iciiuil (yinf.iinitt 
,iU OMnfdmitt. 

llm einen ;)iorf fiir cine covpiitcnte ''+>e.fon ^11 ^eidinen 
minfle mnn 'i'i 3o" 'nni I fiir K ab, nl? ge^cigt luiib in 
3eid)nnng '■', ; bann meffc bie oorbeic Snille non T big S 
nnb Don R biS N ; mnn nebmc >2 3ol( ,5Uiifd)cn N unb F 
()evnu§ unb meffe oorne non F fiir H, n)eld)ej H nnd) norne 
bring! nl8 ge^eigt miib an pnnftivter Vinic, bnnn Hon H 
bii^ J ift o'lj; 3li11, iucld)ej J nnd) oorne bvingt mie nnge- 
beuteb nn punflirter t'inie ; forme ben oorberen il)cil Don 
G burd) K nnb J nl8 gejeigt an punftirtcr Sinie. 



Diagram 4 

Represents a straight front sack, which is produced in 
the same manner as Diagram 3, except from I to J is 
half of breast on thirds; from J to S is half of breast on 
fourths ; square down from S to T twelve inches ; from 
T to A is one and one half inches; from A to P is width 
of pocket ; from O to N is full scye measure on fourths ; 
square out fromZ for full length of coat to U,-fromUto 
P is one inch ; from P to Q is the same shape bottom as 
illustrated ; appl}- waist measure and take out the sur- 
plus cloth on waist line as illustrated All other 
parts of the coat are drafted by the same principle as 
Diagram 3. 

For a double-breasted sack, add one inch more to 
front. 



Srfliirung bcr ^riifjnuitg 9la. 4. 

^iefe 3fici)''iiiiiJ HclU cine uorbcicii gcvaben !)Uicf Dor, 
iuelc()cr ebcii fo tjcrciefteflt mirb aI8 gejcigt in 3ficl)iiii"g 3, 
niiisgcniMnincn mm I bie J iff Mc \ialftt' ber 'iPnift in ©rittel; 
Don J 1)1(5 S ift bie .piilfte bcr ^yi-uft in iMCilel ; luinflc ab 
Don > bi? T ^molf 3on ; Don T bis A iff Ij^ ^oll ; Don 
A bin B ift bie ~,. cite ber5(ifd)e ; Don bi? N ift bai DoUe 
9lrmlod)-!)Jin^ in Siertcl ; winfle ab Don Z fiir bie ooHe 
Siinge beS 9locfe8 nad) U ; Don U biS P ift 1 3oll ; Don 
P bis Q ift bicfclbc ^^orm nl8 illnftviect; mon lege baS 
Saillen^Wafe nn unb fdjncibe ben iibcrftiiffigcn (Stoff on 
bev Snille l)cvans idic ilUiftriert. 9(llc anberen Sbeilc beS 
;)iocfc§ lueibcM in bcrfelben 3Beifc alS 3fit^"D"g 3 gc- 
fdjnittcn. 

giir einen bop|)eI»briiftigcn @ail=9locf fiige einen ^oU 
Micbr in bev ^-ront. 



Diagram 5 

Represents a double-breasted frock, which is drafted 
the same as Diagram 3, except that from S to T is two 
and one half inches where breast and seat measure the 
same, but is subject to the variations the same as Dia- 
gram 3 for various sizes of seal measures. 

A is one-half of breast ; from A to B is two and a half 
inches, square down for C and up to G ; from B to F is 
two and a half inches ; from C to E is two and a '/( 
inches ; draw a line from E to F up to J and H.- from J to 
H is three and a half inches ; in all cases, draw a line 
from ^ to H and mark K two and three-quarter inches 
frcmi G for width of lapel ; from G to I is two and a 
quarter inches; shape lapel through K, I and F, U, P 
and Q is the same as Diagram 4. 



©rflijrung bcr ^fit^nung 9lo. 5. 

©icfc 3eicl)""'Hl It^tlt cinen ioppclbriifticicn i)lci(f bor, 
welrfier qevabe fo fle^cirfii.ct iinrb mie bic Bcirf)"""!! -'^0. 3, 
auScjciuimmcn, bafi oon S bis T 2>2 iion i"'t luo bus 33nift= 
unb baS ©ilisllfaii ^Q8felbe ift, abcr ift ben Unterfc^icben 
fiir bie ncii'diicbciicn ®i|i»9Jtajje ebciifo untermcrfcn alS in 

bcr 3ficl)iii'iirt ^^ti^- 3. 

A ift bie .f^iilfte bev 3?ruft ; Don A faia B ift 2)4 BoH 
gerube [)ernnter fiiv C unb Ijerauf bi^ G ; Don B bi* F ift 
2X 3^^" ; ^"■''" ^ '''* ^'-^ •''* ^'^ 30Q ; man n,id}e eine iiinie 
»ion E bis F fjinauf bi§ J nub H ; bou J bt§ H ift S/z 
JoU ; in alien ^■^-iillen ^ielje man eine Vinie bon G biS H 
unb 5eid)ne 2^^ ^oi bou G ein K fiir bie SScite beS 5Iuf^ 
fc^lag« ; bou G biS I ift 2^ Soil ; forme ben 9luffd)(ag 
bur^ K, I nub F ; U, P unb Q ift eben fo luie in 9to. 4. 



Diagram 6 

Represents a single-breasted overcoat, and is drafted 
the same as a sack coat, with the exception that from 
S to T is two and a half inches where breast and seat 
measures are alike. From M to N is thirteen and a half 
inches, and from A to B is four inches, and C to O is four 
and one half inches. For a double-breasted coat add to 
front one and a half inches more at B and O. Take all 
overcoat measures over the undercoat over which the 
overcoat is to be worn. 



(Srf((iritng bfr ^rti^nung 9le. 6. 

©iefeS ftellt eiiien einfad)en Uebcv^iel)er toor unb trirb ge» 
rabe fo ge^eidjnet loic eiu @act-J)tocf, mit bcr ShiSnaljme, 
bag uoti S bU T 2}i 3oU ift mo tai 23ruft= unb @i|«9Jfa& 
gleid) ift. 95on M lii*i N ift Vi'A. Don A big B ift 4 unb 
tion C bis ift 4^4 So"- S""^ ^'"f" bop^jcl^briiftigcn 
9locI fiigc man ju ber ?^ront 1>4 BoB "ic&r bei B unb 0. 
Wan nebnic nlle Ucbev^icbfr-^IJfnfie iibev ben unteren Dtocf, 
iibcr meldjen ber llebcijieljcr gctvngen merben foH. 



Diagram 7 

Represents the full dress coat, which is drafted the 
same as Diagram 3, except the width of back at H is 
only one and three-quarter inches wide, and from V to 
X is half of breast on thirds ; from E to F is the same : 
draw a line from F to X,- then from F to G is two and a 
half inches ; from R to! Y is one and a half inches : from 
Z to U is two and a quarter inches The spring of skirt 
is the same as Diagram 3. The width of lapel is one 
quarter of an inch narrower than that of Diagram 5. 



grfliirung bcr ^ci(l)iiuiig !Ko. 7. 

S)er ^roct mirb gevabc ge^cinjiiet mie 9to. 3, mit Slugs 
na^mc ber 9Beite be§ 9iiicfen8 bci H, nicldic luir 1^ ^o\l 
itjcit ift, unb Don V big X ift bie •'oiilftc bcr Siuft in 1)uU 
teln ; bon E big F ift bngfclbe ; mnn ,^ic[)e cine Sinie Don 
FbiSX; bann Don F big G, mcldjcg 2>4 30a ift ; won 
Z big U ift 2}{ 3oa. ®ie 9liigbcl)niuui beg ^hicfcg ift bie< 
fclbc roie in 9to. 3. Sie SBeite beg ?hiffd)la(je§ ift einen 
biertel 3oH f"gcr olg biejenige bon 5lo. 5. 



Diagram 8 

Represents a single-breasted vest, which is drafted the 
sameas thecoat, except point I is one half inch farther to 
the front and onehalf inch lower down ; the shoulder is 
drafted the same as for the coat, but should be cut 
about three-quarters of an inch narrower, as illustrated : 
J is half of breast ; K is two and a quarter inches from 
J ; square down from J for h, and from K for M.- then 
from M to N is half of breast on halves; measure the 
waist from L to N and from P to O, taking out the sur- 
plus cloth between N and O; Q is halfway between R 
and K; shape from Q to N, and from Q to O, as illus- 
trated ; for double-breasted vest, see fashion plates. 



Gfrfforung ber 3fif^"""9 '^o. 8. 

C^'iiic eiiuciliicic 5h?eftc luirb geiuni ge^eidjiiet mie ber 9totf, 
iiiit 5(iuMuil)mc ber SSevbinbung bci I, iueld)e einen Ijalben 
^ol[ iniber 5iu- i^'sniint uiib einen bnl&cn Si^'I ni^'^viger iff ; 
^ic ^duiltcv ift genau fo luie bie bc§ !)locfe8, follte nur un* 
(U'fiibr brct nicvtcl 3oD enget gcfdinitten inerben, qI8 illu=^ 
Itiicit ; J iit bie Miilfte ber SBrnft ; K ift 1 >^ QoH Hon Ji 
nuiifle ab Don J fiiv L unb Hon K fiiv M; baim mm M 
bii^ N ift bie A^alfte ber 23ruft in bnlben: ninn ineffe bie 
Iiiillc Hon L bisj N unb Hon P bii^ 0, inbcni man ba8 
iilurfliiffige iud) 3n3ifd)en N unb O I)evnutM"d)ncibet ; Q ift 
bei liidbe 5JBeg jmifdjen R unb K ; forme Hon Q, biS N unb 
Hon (i bij O, nlf iduftriert ; fiir jiueireiliigc SSeften fie^e 
biu^ Wobe=3onrnal. 



Diagram 9 , 

Grtlnrung bcr ^fif^'i'mfl ^i^- "• 

Represents a ladies cloak, the constructive lines and 5Me Son|truftion«luiien fiiv fincn ramen-WantcI fmb 

measures are the same as for a coat, except from P to F i,-^^^clbcn mic bicjcmqen eiiieS 9locfeJ, au8gcnommen ba& 

is six inches always ; from F to H is hip measure, square ^,o„ p (jj.^ ^ ftcts 6 BoQ i|t ; Hon F hii H ift tao Miiften^ 

up for I ; from I to M is three and one-h,ilf inches; from s))(a^^ ,ui„f[e ^,i, fy^ i . ^y,„ i i,jj y[ ,,-, 3,/; 3^,^ . y^,, h 

H to N is four inches ; from I to J is half of breast on ^,■^.^ ^ !,•( 4 .^^,|[ .' y^„ j ^^■^^ j j,-, f,;^ ,,^jj[itj f,f^. 9^^^^^^ j,, 

eighths and one inch; from Q to R is one-half of aclitfl uiib cineii Boll ; Don Q bis li lit ^ic Miilftc bev «nift 

breast on thirds and one inch. Draft shoulder: other- ,„ biittcl nnb cinen Bo'I- "■'■'frti' H'ifl"ic t'if £cl)ultcr 

wise the same as for coats. From F to Gis one-half of f (,„,-} j,c,..it(f mc fur ben ^locf . 23on F fai§ G ift bie "•'nlfte 

breast on sixths; from C~. to C is one-half of breast on t,er 'Ihnh in fediftcL ; Hon G [lie C ift bif Malftc bev 3?vuft 

thirds; from C to E is one-half of breast on fourths ; i„ j„.,ttcl ; lum C bid E ift bie iiiilftf ber ^inuft in uicitel ; 

square up from G to waist line and from E for L and E for minflc nb (i bis juv Saiden^einie unb Hon E fiir L unb 

■ K apply the incline and suppression to waist and to skirt E fnr K biiiuu' baj 3ncline nnb Siippvcffion^Wafi fiiv bie 

the same as for coats. In reducing the draft from I to Q Jnillc nnb bcii ;1iocf in Slnnicnbinui. C^nbeni nion ben 

for size of breast take out one inch at K and the balance Cf ntiiuirf Hon I his Q, fiir baiJ Mc\\i bcv 'i^rnft Hertleincrt, 

at L and shape side and waist seems as illustrated. ncbnto man eincn BaO bei K bcnui? nnb ben !)icff bei L, 

bciiui forme sSeiten unb Sa'llcny.Wi)) ill? illnftiievt. 



Diagram 10 

Shows the manner of drafting the fore part of trousers. 
Commence by drawing a line from A to C about forty- 
five inches long, then from A to B is height of waist : 
from B to C is length of leg; D is halfway between B and 
C- from D to E is two inches; in all cases, square across 
from A, B, E and C; then from A to G is oneand onehalf 
inches always ; from G to H is half of waist on halves : 
from B to I is half of seat on halves; from I to J is half 
of seat on eighths ; from J to L is three-quarters of an 
inch for dress; from I to M is the same, from C to R is 
half of seat on twelfths; from C to Q is half of seat on 
fourths ; from C to K is half of seat on halves; from B to 
F is half of seat on sixths: draw a line from F to R, 
and from L to K ; shape as illustrated. 

Diagram 1 1 

vShows how the back part of trousers are drafted. Draw 
a line across the fore part by F and J for N and O; from 
J toOis two and a quarter inches always, and from Fto 
N is one and one half inches always; from M to Q is one 
inch more than knee measure on halves, which allows 
for seam ; from E to I is the sdme : from K to U is one 
inch more than the bottom measure on halves ; from R 
to T is the same; square out from H for C.- draw a line 
from E through N for C .■ from H to P is half of seat on 
eighths; draw a line from L to P, and square up from P 
for S.- from P to S is half of seat on sixths; from C to B 
is two and one half inches ; measure the waist from C 
to B, then from H to G, then from S to A, adding one 
and a quarter of an inch for seams, and taking out 
the surplus cloth between B and A. 

Abnormal Trousers 
Are dra'ted the same as Diagrams lo and 1 1 , with the 
exception that from G to N is half of waist on halves ; 
square up from I for H, then measure the distance from 
H to N in front as per dotted lines, and mark N 
above the line H half of the distance that N is in front of 
H,- draw a line from G to N for top of fore part, as 
illustrated by dotted lines from G to N ; shape the 
front as usual. 



Cfrfforiinfl bcr ^'{riiJjitung 9la. 10. 

T'cr imvbcrc iljeil bcr Mofeii iiuib in bci folnciibeii ©cife 
ge^cid)iiet : Wuii jiel)c cine 2iine luni A biei C uiuicfai)r 45 
3ii[[ laiiii, bnnii lum A big B iff bic .'oiibc bcr Jailic ; Don 
B bic C iff bic I'ange bcs Sicilies ; D iff bcr hnlbc ©eg 
5Uiifd)cii B iinb C ; Hon D bii E .ft 2 BliA ; in alien ^iillen 
uiinflc lib Don A, B, E unb C ; Hon A bid G iit ftctS I'-j 
3olI ; mm G bi« H iff bic SVdlftc b-r Xoiflc in Ijalben ; 
I'on 1 bi* J iff bic Ajniftc bc8 SilicS in ncl)fcl ; luin J biji 
L iif bicinicrevl SoU ; imn I bis M iff bn^fclbe, lum (' big 
R iff bic •V>ci|fic bc8 <2,U}ei in ^iiuilftcl ; Hon C bia Q iff bic 
C»iilfte bc« Sitieei m oicrtcl ; Hon (' bi? K iff tic .vidlffc 
bcs @il!C? in Ijiilbcn ; Hon B biji F iff bic diilftc be? ii= 
ties in fccl)ffcl ; man jte^e cine iJinie Hon F bics R unb Hon 
L big K unb forme mic illuftvicit. 

@rt((iriiny bcr ^ridjninifi iNt). 11. 

®cv hintcrc JI)cil bev ■vtofcn mirb in folgcnbcr 'J\?ctfc iie= 
jcidinct : SJian ^ichc cine yinic iibei ben Horbcrcn "iljcil 
burd) F unb .) fiii' N unb O ; Hon J big O iff ffctS 2}( 
3oiI, unb Hon F big N iff ftct? 1 '^ 3olI ; Hon JM big Q iff 
cincn ^oU niebv olg bag .*itnicnia| nn [)alben, uield)cg fiir 
ben @aum evlanbt ; Hon E big I iff bagfelbe ; Hon K big 
U iff etnen Sol\ niehv nig bag 3?obcnmafi in biilbcn ; Hon 
R big T iff bagfelbe ; ininfle ab Hon H fiir C. Man ^icbc 
cine i^iuic Hon E burd) N fiir C inin H big P iff bic 
•v>alftc beg icilu'g in adifcl. Man ^icl)e cine Vinic Hon L 
bici P un^ niinfic nb Hon P fiir S. ^Non P big .S iff bie 
.sSiilfte beg ^il(cg in fcdiftcl. lUm C big B iff 2j4 3oIl. 
Man nicffc bie Xaillc Hon C big B, Hon H bi'' G, Hon 8 
bio A unb fiige cincn Hicrtcl 3li11 fiir vSanni bin?n, inbcm 
man ben iibcrfliiffincn (Stoff ^nufdicn B nub A bcnui?^ 
fd)ncibet. 

;li c (1 c I ni i b r i ii c -v^ o f e n 
uicrben in bevfclbcn ^vH'ifc cic^ci.bnet alg bic 3i'''l'i'""!l''i' 
9to. 1(» unb 11, niif bcr '•Jhi'^nahme bafi Hon G biC' N bic 
•f>iilffc bcr inillc iff in linlbcn, minflc ab Hon O fiir H, 
bann mcffc bic (.^nffcrnnnci Hon II bii< N alss lU'u'iilt burd) 
bic pnnftiiten i.'iuien, nnb uiarfivc N iibcr bcr yinic II in 
bev halben 0"-ntfernnnci, bafj N Hor H iff. 9fun ^icbc cine 
yinic Hon G bi-J N fiir ben Horbeien obcren Jhcil a[^ iie= 
5ciiit mirb bnvd) bie punftirtcn yinien Hon G bie N. (\ornic 
bic g-rout in bcr i)ennil)nlid)cn iBcifc. 



Diagram 12 

Represents the sleeve which is drafted from the scye 
measure of cOat pattern which is taken with out any 
allowance whatever, the measure being taken directly 
around the arm hole on the edge of the pattern, todraft 
sleavecommeiice by drawing a line from A towards B 
about twenty-four inches long and from A towards C 
about twelve inch-^s long, then from A to J is full meas- 
ure of arm hole on sixteenths ; from A to E is full 
measure on fourths ; from A to C is tull measure on 
halves : square down from C towards D the full length 
of square; from E to K is full measure on six- 
teenths square down from K to F which is full 
measure on fourths ; square out from F for Z ; 
from Z to G is one and one-fourth inches in all cases ; 
square down from G the full length of square, 
then from G to H is one and one-fourth inches 
square across from H for I which is one and one-fourth 
inches from X; square down from I to M: the full length 
of square from H to L is lengthof under arm from L to T 
is one and one-fourth inches ; square across from T 
through D, M, P and B, then from N to P is .six and one- 
fourth inches, W is halfway between A and B; square 
across from W to Q, then from Q to R is three-fourths of 
inch, and from S to U and from V to W is the same 
shape sleeve as illustrated. Notch the sleeve at Z to 
baste to notch of front scye. 



(Srflanmg bcr 3tiff)"""9 JKo. 12. 

®er 8(crmel luirb c^qcicljuet inbcm man bii8 ^^lvmli.id)=' 
'J.'fojj hcS Sli^rfiiuiftcvS nimiiit. Wan \\cl)e ctiu' yiiiie uon 
A iiad) B \iiuicfnt)r 24 QoW tang unb Don A nad) C unge= 
fa[)v 12 3iill lang, bann >mn A Iii8 J ift bo8 lioHe^Hfafe beS 
9lrnilnr(is in fcrli«.<i'liiifM. iKiin A big E ift ba9 luiHc 'i'.Vali 
in nicrtcl, lum .\ bi>> (' ift bo? ooflc Waf) bcei I'lvmlod)? 
in l)albcn. S^Miifh- od lum C nnd) D btc nolle Siintie bfj 
aiSuiCdS. U-Hin K bio K in bas uollc Waj! in fcdj-Jjclintel. 
inm K (lis F ift bao luiltc *'.'i"ai! in Dicrtel gcvabe liemntcv. 
flMnflc lib lum )'' fur Z, non Z bis G ift ift 1>4 Soil in 
aQen ^-iillcii. SlMnfic bcvuutcr Don G bie imUe iidngc bcS 
SiMnfcl'i, bann non G bis H ift 1^ ^oU gcrobc jnviirf lion 
H bnrd) X ^iir I, iiield)e§ 1% 3oU uon X ift. WviUe hev= 
untcr Hon I bii M. ©ie noQe yiingc bct^ 3i>infcls non H 
bi-i L ift bie iidnge be8 llnterarms. ^Jion L bis T ift I34 
3oH. SBinflc gerabe bcriibcr non T bnrd) D, M, P unb 
B, bnnn non N bis P ift ()}( Bull, W ift bcv Ijalbc a^3cg 
jn'ifd)en A unb B. 9\?iufle beviibfr non W biS Q, bann 
non Q bis B ift brciuirrtel B^H imb non S biei U unb nou 
V bia W ift biefelbe g-orm bes 5(evme[§ a\i illnftrievt. 




b N^ 



Diagram 1 3 

Represents a cape that is drafted from the coat measure, 
with the exception of length, which is represented by 
g. L,ocate all the points just as you would for the 
coat ; I represents half of breast ; from I to J is three 
and a quarter inches: square down from J; from Fto His 
onehalfofan inch; draw a line from A to B through H.- 
from G toB is two and a half inches; shape cape from L 
to B, and from B to front as represented; from line I to D 
is half of breast on fourths ; draw a line through D from 
C for E ; from C to E is the same length as from A to B ; 
shape shoulder and side seam from C to E ; shape bottom 
from G to E ; when the cape is to be without collars take 
an inch off the front at J , as per dotted lines ; to draft the 
collar, draw a line from K (which represents the brake) 
through E for M / from E to N is one inch ; draw a line 
from Kto O through N, and shape collars as illustrated. 
The coat collars should be dratted in same manner. 



grfliirung bcr ^ci^nuiig 9Jo. 13. 

Sin fvoflcii ((5al..c) inirb gejeid)nct uon bem 9iocfmnf!e 
iiiit ^(uciiiabmc bcr I'iinnc, *oeli^e barcicfteUt ift biivd) G. 
Wan ncljiiie allc %ninfie c]ci'au [o an alS bic bcsj ;)tocEes. 
I ift bic ^cilftc bcv i^iiift, Don 1 bi§J i« 3^ '^i)\\, iBinfle 
Ijcnmtev bon J, imn F hVi H ift yi BoU, mnn \\t\)i einc 
i'inic iHin A bt« .B buvd) H, oon G big B ift 2;4 3oll, 
forme ben .tengcn mm L bi* B unb lum B ^nv Jront ale 
(le^citjt, lum bcr ^inie I bi-J D ift bic .'piilfte bcr iPrnft in 
Dicrtel, .^icljc einc Sinie burd) D bon C fiir E, non C bij E 
ift bagfelbc alg Don A biS B, forme bic (Sd)nltern nnb.$iif= 
tcnfanm uon C biS E, forme ben Soben non G bi8 E, 
lucnn bcr (Sapc o()ncigd)nttcrtraijen fein foil, fo ncbmc man 
cin^n 3ti[I 'lb uon bcr g-ront bei J a'8 Ge^cigt iftbnrd) pnnf« 
tirte Sinien, nm ben Sragen ju jeid)nen jiel)e man eincyinic 
lum K burd) L fiir M, bon L big N ift em '^i>l\, man jiel)c 
cine yintc lum K big O bnrd) N, nnb forme ben .SVragen alg 
illnftrirt. Die i)locE .ftragen miiffcn in bcrfclbcn "ilkife gc- 
,^cid)iu't mcrbcn. 



Diagram 1 4 GrtlorunB Dcr 5cid)nuii3 9!n. U. 

Represents the sleeve for ladies cloak, it is drafted the Ticfc ;-^cici)iiiinci ftellt hen 'Jlcniicl oiiieo Taiiicmminti'l,- 

same as the coat sleeve except two and one-half inches luiv luib iff in ^Cl•)'cl[lcn ilH'ifc ocu'id)Mct niieiii'iuniiincii oou 

areadded to the coat sleeve as illustrated; from B to C, D '2^^2 :ioi[, lucldjc jum ?)uicf<''^lcinicl hiimiiicfiint mevbcii, alc- 

to Band from F to G. The sleeve should be cnt a little ilhiftvivt, Hon B bi6 C, D bi-:; K iiii& luni F bin (i. ©cv 

more crooked at elbow and about one inch narrower at ''^Iciniol foUtc ctn txicnt(i ineliv flcluiiicii iicfchiiitteii lllcv^cn am 

elbow and wrist than that of a coat sleeve. tflboiieii imb imiicfalir iim eiiien 3oll ciiQcv al.:j bcvicnine 

ciiu-i- :)tnil 'i!lc.-iiu'l3. 



i^Fioi^c)r^T"iO]Ni "f^^^i^e:. 



Rreast of C^nat .... 


3-2 


33 


34 


35 


3t) 


37 


38 


39 


40 


41 


42 


Waist 


•28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


Hip 


33 


34 


35 


30 


37 


37 


38 


38 


39 


40 


41 


Shonldtr Pitch 


4 


4 


4 


4 


4 


4 


4 


4 


4 


4 


4 


Waist Length 


15 


I.')!, 


1534 


US 


10 


16^ 


17 


My, 


\'y 


\iy 


18 


Length lof Sack Coat 


•is 


2!t 


30 


31 


31 


31>^ 


31>^ 


32 


32 


321^ 


33. 


Length of Cutaway 


31 lo 


32 


32 U 


33 


33 


33 


331^ 


331^ 


.34 


3414 


35 


Length of Overcoat 


34 


3.") 


3Ci 


•> i 


38 


38 


39 


39 


411 


4(_> 


41 


Si/e of Scve 


13/3 

•2 '4 


14 


14' , 


U'.. 


15 


3 


15 ■, 


10 


10., 
4 


10'. 


17 


Inc'i iiic 


2 '-., 








■■^'/j. 


H 


4 


41 


Sm^T^re'Ssion 


13/ 


1 U, 


I'o 


lu 


U 


u 


u 


- 
1 ■ , 


1-4 
19 


1 


1 


Length of Under Arm 


l(i3, 


17 


17'_, 


173.4 


18 


18X 


18 34 


I8/4 


\%y 


19>^ 


Length of \'est Co hir 


13 


13 


13', 


13 ■, 


14 


14 


14i 


15 


15^ 


10 


10 


Length of \'est 


23 


'ri% 


24 


24 -i 


25 


25 


251 


20 


201 


27 


27i 


Size of Pant Hi]) 


•33 


34 


35 


3C 


37 


38 


39 


40 


41 


42 


43 


Height of Pant Waist 


Si^ 


s.^ 


■ 
9 


9 


94 


H 


10 


10 


10^ 


11 


lU 


Size of Waist. 


-9>2 


30 >, 


311.., 


32 '4 


33i 


34i 


35i 


301 


37^ 


38J 


39^ 


Length of Leg. 


2!l 


30 


30 >-^ 


.31 


3U 


32 


33 


34 


34i 


35 


35^ 


Size of Knee 


19 


t9>^ 


20 


20 


20 


20 


201 


21 


2U 


0.) 


22 


^>i/e of Bottom 


17 


17 >2 


IS 


IS 


IS 


18 


18i 


19 


191 


20 


20 







HL LDIIIUN ASKhD hUK 
IS NOT ON THE SHELF, 
THIS EDITION IS SUB- 
STITUTED 



I 



